Have you ever looked at a rugged, beautiful mountain and thought, “I wonder what it’s like up there?” For over half a century, thousands of people have been answering that call in England’s Lake District, guided by the passion of one unique man and his famous list of hills. They’re called the Wainwrights. If you love walking, stunning views, and a tangible sense of achievement, then welcome. This is your starting point for one of the UK’s most beloved outdoor adventures.
Let me be honest from the start. I wasn’t born with boots on my feet. My first “proper” walk in the Lakes was a struggle. I was overdressed, underprepared, and convinced Helvellyn was another name for Everest. But reaching the top, despite the sweat and tears, showed me a world of rippling fells and shimmering lakes that I never knew existed from the ground. That feeling, that addictive mix of effort and awe, is what the Wainwrights are all about. It’s a personal journey, and it begins with a bit of history.
Who Was Alfred Wainwright?
To understand the Wainwrights, you need to meet the man behind them. Alfred Wainwright, or “AW” as he’s fondly known, wasn’t a professional mountaineer. He was an accountant from Blackburn who found solace and joy in the Lake District. Between 1952 and 1966, in a labour of love conducted during weekends and evenings, he created something remarkable: the seven-volume Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells.
These weren’t just dry instruction manuals. They were hand-written, hand-drawn works of art. Every page was crafted by AW himself, featuring meticulous sketches of the mountains, beautifully detailed maps, and wonderfully opinionated prose. He told you where to park, what the path was like (“a tedious plod”), and where to find the best view of a tarn. He wrote not as a distant expert, but as a fellow walker sharing his favourite discoveries. His gruff, no-nonsense personality shines through. He famously said he wrote the guides for his own pleasure, and if they gave pleasure to others, that was a bonus. This personal touch is why they still feel so relevant today. He wasn’t creating an official list; he was simply documenting the 214 fells he loved.
So, What Exactly Are the Wainwrights?
In simple terms, the Wainwrights are the 214 fells, or hills and mountains, featured in AW’s seven pictorial guides. It’s crucial to know this: they are not the highest 214 fells, nor are they an official classification. They are Alfred Wainwright’s personal selection. Some are towering giants like Scafell Pike, England’s highest peak. Others are smaller, charming “tops” that offer a perfect afternoon’s stroll.
This is the beauty of the challenge. It’s democratic. It’s not just for elite hikers. By including a wide variety of fells, AW created a challenge that invites everyone in. You might bag five on a long ridge walk one day, and just one gentle, isolated fell the next. The total number, 214, has a certain magic to it. It’s a big number, suggesting a lifetime of exploration, but it’s also a finite, achievable goal. Completing them all is a significant achievement, often taking years of dedicated weekends, and it connects you deeply to the entire tapestry of the Lake District landscape.
Why “Bag” Wainwrights? The Pull of the Challenge
You might ask, why follow a list made by a man decades ago? Why not just walk wherever you fancy? I thought the same. But there’s a powerful psychology at play. Having a list gives direction and purpose. On a rainy Tuesday when motivation is low, knowing you have a target can get you out the door. “Bagging” a Wainwright—ticking it off your list—gives a small, concrete hit of satisfaction. It turns a vague wish to “go walking” into a focused adventure.
More importantly, the list takes you to places you might otherwise never go. I’ll give you an example. Before I started, I’d only ever heard of the big names. But because of the Wainwrights, I sought out a little fell called “Lank Rigg.” It’s in the western Lakes, relatively remote and quiet. The walk was over rolling, grassy moorland, not the dramatic rocky drama of the central fells. But at the summit, there was an old, rusting survey pole and a silence so profound I could hear my own heartbeat. The view was a sweeping, desolate beauty I had all to myself. I would never have gone there without AW’s nudge. The Wainwrights become a trusted guide, showing you every facet of the Lakes, from the postcard-perfect to the quietly obscure.
Getting Started: Your First Wainwrights
The thought of 214 can be paralyzing. Don’t look at the whole mountain, as they say; just focus on the first step. The best way to begin is to choose a beginner-friendly Wainwright. Forget Scafell Pike for now. Start with something that builds confidence and joy.
A perfect first choice is Catbells, near Keswick. It’s often called “everyone’s favourite mountain.” It’s not too high, but the climb is interesting and the view over Derwentwater is simply breathtaking. On a sunny day, you’ll share it with many others, and there’s a lovely community feel. Another fantastic starter is Loughrigg Fell, near Ambleside. It’s a bit of a maze of paths, but you can tailor the walk to your energy, and the 360-degree view from the top is an incredible reward for modest effort. Hallin Fell, on the shores of Ullswater, is a short, steep pull that delivers one of the finest lake views imaginable. You can be up and down in an hour, feeling like a conquering hero.
My personal first was Helvellyn via Striding Edge—a baptism of fire I don’t recommend! I learned the hard way. Start small, enjoy the process, and let your legs and your confidence grow.
Planning Your Adventure: Gear, Mindset, and Respect
This isn’t a stroll in the park. The Lake District weather is famously changeable. A sunny start can become a cold, wet, and windy ordeal in minutes. Being prepared is non-negotiable. Your essential kit includes: sturdy, broken-in walking boots (blisters are the enemy), a waterproof jacket and trousers, warm layers (fleece, hat, gloves), plenty of water and high-energy food, a detailed paper map and compass (and the knowledge to use them), and a fully charged phone in a power bank.
Technology has moved on since AW’s day. While his books are a joy, many walkers now use GPS apps like the excellent “Wainwrights” app, which has all the routes and maps on your phone. But please, never rely solely on a phone. Batteries die, signals fail. A paper map is your lifeline.
Finally, adopt the right mindset. This isn’t a race. It’s about being in the landscape. Learn the Countryside Code: respect farmers by closing gates, stick to paths to protect fragile ground, take all your litter home, and be considerate to other walkers. Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photographs. The fell you’re standing on will likely have been there for millennia. We’re just passing through, and it’s our job to keep it beautiful for those who come after us, just as AW did for us.
The Journey is Everything
Completing all 214 Wainwrights is a magnificent goal. Some people meticulously plan, conquering them area by area. Others, like me, take a more meandering approach, bagging them as the mood and weather dictate. There’s no wrong way. The final few fells often become a celebratory event, with friends and family joining in. The Wainwrights Society even offers a register where you can record your completion and receive a certificate—a lovely acknowledgement of your effort.
But the true reward isn’t the last tick on the list. It’s everything that happens in between. It’s the smell of damp earth after rain, the feeling of sun on your face after a tough climb, the shared flask of tea with a friend on a windy summit, and the deep, satisfying tiredness at the end of a good day. It’s the way you start to read the landscape, recognising the distinctive shape of Blencathra or the long ridge of the Fairfield horseshoe from miles away.
Alfred Wainwright gave us a framework, but the experience is entirely our own. He wrote, “The fleeting hour of life of those who love the hills is quickly spent, but the hills are eternal.” The Wainwrights are an invitation to spend your hours well, to become part of the story of these eternal hills. So lace up your boots, pick a fell, and take that first step. Your adventure awaits.
Conclusion
The Wainwrights are more than a checklist; they are a legacy of one man’s profound love for the Lake District, passed down through generations of walkers. They offer a structured yet deeply personal way to explore one of the world’s most beautiful landscapes, catering to both the casual stroller and the dedicated peak-bagger. By following in Alfred Wainwright’s footsteps, you embark on a journey that builds fitness, confidence, and a unique connection to the natural world. Remember to prepare well, respect the environment, and, most importantly, savour every moment and every view. The hills are waiting to share their secrets with you.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: How many Wainwrights are there?
A: There are 214 Wainwrights. These are the fells (hills and mountains) featured in Alfred Wainwright’s seven-volume Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells.
Q2: What is the easiest Wainwright to climb?
A: Fells like Catbells, Loughrigg Fell, and Hallin Fell are considered great for beginners. They offer relatively short, straightforward ascents with absolutely spectacular views, providing maximum reward for reasonable effort.
Q3: Do I have to be an experienced hiker to start?
A: Absolutely not! The variety of the Wainwrights is their genius. Start with the smaller, easier fells to build your skills and confidence. Always check the route description, distance, and ascent before you go, and choose walks that match your fitness level.
Q4: How long does it take to complete all 214?
A: There’s no set time. For most people, it’s a long-term project done over years of weekends and holidays. Some dedicated walkers complete them in a single, intensive year, but for most, it’s a lifelong leisure pursuit. The average might be anywhere from 5 to 15 years.
Q5: What is “Wainwright bagging”?
A: “Bagging” simply means the activity of climbing a Wainwright with the intention of ticking it off your personal list. The term is used in many hill-walking challenges and comes from the idea of collecting or “bagging” each summit.
Q6: Do I need Wainwright’s books, or is an app enough?
A: While dedicated apps are fantastic for navigation and logging progress, many walkers find that owning the original Pictorial Guides enriches the experience immensely. The hand-drawn detail, route suggestions, and AW’s personal commentary add a layer of charm and context that an app cannot replicate. Using both is ideal.